Great spots in Durban
Now that I’ve made a new, vague plan, after accepting that nothing turned out as I thought it would, it feels a lot easier to move around in Durban. I have barely got a week left in Durbs before the SBKA dance festival in Cape Town starts but I have actually managed to find a routine here. Some mornings I walk along the sea promenade connecting Durban’s North and South beach.
Other mornings I go to my favorite café, Glenwood Bakery, and try to get some writing done. They bake and cook everything themselves, there are always fresh juices available, the staff is really friendly and the WiFi is excellent. I started coming here in 2015 but back then it was huge Sunday brunch gatherings with all of my friends. Now it’s a party for one. I allow for slow mornings and slow movements. There are so many things happening within me I feel the almost physical need for stillness.
Sewage crisis in Durban, detrimental for tourism
Unfortunately I haven’t been swimming. The Durban beaches are closed due to sewage leaking into the ocean. In April and May 2022, Durban was hit hard by floods causing walls, roads, infrastructure and whole houses to be damaged and even washed away. The sewage leakage has, to this day, not been cleaned up properly and continues to pollute the ocean affecting the marine flora and fauna. On the local news there are daily reports on the E.coli levels at the different beaches and predictions on which beaches will be safe enough to open in time for the December tourist season.
To say that many Durbanites (people living in Durban) are nervous about how the sewage crisis will affect their tourist driven business, is to understate it. Christmas is the biggest tourist season for Durban, it is the time where the city beaches and its surrounding beach towns are filled with thousands upon thousands of happy beach going tourists, both national as international. That almost all of Durban’s beaches are closed at the end of October is worrisome for both the ecosystems and the tourism industry. Many thousands of businesses are completely dependent on the revenues they are expected to make during Christmas.
Sewage crisis in Durban, detrimental for tourism
Unfortunately I haven’t been swimming. The Durban beaches are closed due to sewage leaking into the ocean. In April and May 2022, Durban was hit hard by floods causing walls, roads, infrastructure and whole houses to be damaged and even washed away. The sewage leakage has, to this day, not been cleaned up properly and continues to pollute the ocean affecting the marine flora and fauna. On the local news there are daily reports on the E.coli levels at the different beaches and predictions on which beaches will be safe enough to open in time for the December tourist season.
To say that many Durbanites (people living in Durban) are nervous about how the sewage crisis will affect their tourist driven business, is to understate it. Christmas is the biggest tourist season for Durban, it is the time where the city beaches and its surrounding beach towns are filled with thousands upon thousands of happy beach going tourists, both national as international. That almost all of Durban’s beaches are closed at the end of October is worrisome for both the ecosystems and the tourism industry. Many thousands of businesses are completely dependent on the revenues they are expected to make during Christmas.
Navigating Durban at night
When I feel lonely I go out to eat in the evenings. Just near by me there is this restaurant called the Vapor Cafe with the most amazing prawn dishes and milkshakes. Don’t question this combo, I find it brilliant! Since the first time I stepped inside, the owner has made it a point to make me feel welcome and seen. Each time I go there, this elder, white haired man has taken the time to sit with me and talk about life, exchanging experiences and thoughts with each other. Needless to say, I’m a regular now. Tonight however, I wanted to try another place that apparently has the best noodles in all of KwaZulu-Natal.
When I go out in the evenings I use either Uber or Bolt (taxi apps) as it’s not really safe to be walking around after dark. To not have access to free movement outdoors is very foreign for a Swede. Today I hadn’t been out all day and was itching for some movement. Furthermore, the restaurant I had my eyes on seemed to be close by and it wasn’t dark yet so I decide to walk. It is such a feeling of freedom being able walk! When I get there though, the place is no longer operating. Maybe another loss caused by the pandemic. It is getting darker and there are no other restaurants on this street. I start heading back towards my airbnb but halfway there all lights go out in the whole area. Load shedding. Fuck.
Load shedding is when the municipalities shut down the power of a whole neighbourhood. South Africa has a huge electricity grid problem which has led them to shut down the electricity for certain areas at the time in order to enable other areas to have electricity. These are usually scheduled and systematically performed but sometimes they catch you off guard – like now. So here I am, standing on a street in Durban at night in complete darkness. Not the safest place to be, not as a woman nor as a tourist, even Durbanites tend to stay inside during load shedding. I start cursing myself for not grabbing a taxi this close to nightfall. Do I request a taxi and wait for it here or do I run the last 10 minutes home? I think I could manage a 10 minute run… As I stand there trying to decide on what to do I hear somebody behind me say “Julia..?”.
I turn around and recognize Gan, a guy I’d spoken to briefly the other day as we were both waiting for our food to be prepared. Thank goodness! Apparently he works right here, in one of Durbans newest phenomenons: weed dispenceries. Marijuana is decriminalized in South Africa, some people say it’s legalized but it’s not like one can smoke it on the street without getting into trouble with the law… so I don’t know. Over the last years, decriminalization has led to lots of weed shops opening up all over Durban where they sell edibles, weed, pre-rolled joints and every and all kind of trinkets that come along.
He invites me to wait out the load shedding in the shop and I gratefully accept. Once inside the shop I realize that this perhaps wasn’t the smartest choice either, entering a completely dark space with a, to me, strange man. But I didn’t need to worry, Gan was awesome and during the two hour black out we became friends. When the power finally came back I stayed and watched a World cup game that was just starting. When it was time to close the shop Gan gave me a ride home on his motorcycle.
Once I’m back at my AirBnB I sigh in relief and thank my angels for their protection. Everything went well, thank goodness. I immediately download the load shedding app to get direct notifications when the load shedding schedule changes. Everything went well this time, but I can’t count on being so lucky next time. I must prepare better.
5 Safety Tips for Solo Explorers
1. Use Trusted Transportation: Choose reliable taxi apps like Uber or Bolt for safe rides at night.
2. Use your head: Stay on well-lit streets and avoid dimly lit or secluded areas, don’t go wandering close to nightfall…
3. Stay Informed: Keep up-to-date on local conditions, like scheduled power outages, or toxic oceans, to stay safe.
4. Trust Your Instincts: If you feel unsafe, trust your gut and take action to remove yourself from the situation.
5. Build a Support Network: Connect with locals or fellow travelers for emergency assistance and good vibes.
2 thoughts on “Solo Traveling in Durban”
This made me nervious…
Prepare better! 🥰❤️
It made me nervous too! x)